Well, we have cut the main line and built a Number 10 crossing. We then added a number 8 crossing to get into the Arrival and Departure tracks, the yard lead and then into the yard. This view shows the number 10 crossing and the yard lead on the right. We have a temporary bumper at the end of the lead to avoid having cars plunge to the floor below.
This is a close up of one of the number 8's. It shows that I am spiking every tie but not going so far as to use tie plates. I do plan to come back later and add rail braces along the point area. I have not yet made the throw bars as I push on building turnouts.
This is looking back through the number 10's.
Here is another view looking back with the number 8's in the foreground and the number 10's in the rear. The ties are light colored as I sand them down to be sure they are level after the glue dries. I use a template to lay out the turnout so I know when to place the frog for the desired number. I use Right of Way products for the frog and point castings.
This is the number 6 turnout that leads to the caboose track. The line continues through the turnout and then into a number 7 that will provide the lead to the yard ladder. The line continues beyond that into a number 8 that opens up into the Arrival and Departure tracks. You can see that the number 6 has to have its ties trimmed to match the curvature of the rails. I do the trimming after I lay the turnout although I am looking at using a Canter tie jig to pre-trim the ties.
This is an overview of the throat that has to be built. The paper template for the number 8 entrance to the Arrival and Departure tracks is in place. You can see that all the turnouts are slightly curved - another complication.
These are the templates for the number 6's that lead into the yard tracks. I am checking as I go for interference with the joists as I place the points. The switch motors will mount below and I can't have them in the same place as the joists. It appears I have a problem with the first turnout so I will probably stretch that one slightly to place the points to the side of the joist.
Okay, so now we have to cross over from the east bound main to the west bound main as we want to be able to enter the yard. So, the first step is to cut the track that was already installed and lay out the ties for a Number 10 crossover. Both turnouts will be on slight curves with some super elevation at each end. This view shows the ties down and a track diagram on the far end.
Once the glue has set up, I sanded the tops of the ties. Now, I have measured the location of the frogs from the point locations and spiked them down in place. You can see them up near the pliers on the ties. The stock rail has also been located and laid to set the curve. The diagram of the switch is sitting on the yard lead to the right. I am trying to get the proper line up of the rail that crosses over. This is a tedious process that is taking some time. I am hoping to get more proficient so that I can move along as I have a number of turnouts to build on this end.
Well, the homasote has been leveled and the edge trimmed. It looks nice and neat as we look around the beginning of the big curve that the yard tracks will traverse. I have raised the main line up about 1/4 inch about the yard tracks.The Arrival and Departure tracks are 1/8th inch above the yard tracks. You might just be able to make out the seam about 8 inches to the right of the main line.
Continuing around the curve, we get a look down toward the east end of the yard. The holding tracks will be about 45 feet long. The edge again ooks nice and sharp
So, with all the trimming done. I can now paint the homasote flat black. This both simulates the cinder under layer below the ballast, it also seals the homasote so that we do not get much movement from moisture absorption. It also looks neat before the dust settles! This is the view from the yard lead.
This is where the yard ladder will be going. We are also going to have an icing platform for reefers to the right.
Again, looking around the curve. The elevation differential clearly shows now.
Another view down towards the east end which has not been plastered nor painted.
We now have to build the yard. The grandchildren have left and we have to push on with construction. I felt I would start on the west end as it is easier and more accessible. This is a view of the yard lead sub-roadbed on the west end of the yard. used some Homabed for a change to get an elevation difference between the yard lead and the main to its left.
Before I go too far,I have to use a router to trim the end of the bench work so that everything lines up for when I add the Masonite fascia later. You can see that the edge has been trimmed to the left and I am now going to trim around the curve. That is an flush edge trimmer bit in the router
One problem I have with the homasote is that it is not a consistent thickness. This shows the difference in thickness between two pieces. It can be pretty significant. I cannot understand why the manufacturer has such poor process to end up like this.
So, what I have to do is to take file folders and cut them into strips that use as shims to level the pieces out. You can see the folders are now stacked and tapered down to go under under the next piece of homasote.
So, now when we put the homasote down, it appears to be level with the preceding piece. This adds a lot of time to laying the surface.
The civil engineering associated with the yard entrance is now nearing completion. We have one small piece of homasote to go.
When I finish the routing of the edge it look like this in the aisle with all the dust from the homasote being cut off. The edge of the bench work looks good though.