Finishing the cab detail on the GP9 with those cab awnings. Job Done!

Well, this is a project that has languished for about a year as I finished the whole engine but was concerned about how I could model the retractable cab awning on the PRR GP9 cabs. My friend Lee Turner gave me the idea when he sent me a photo of an excellent job he did to model this some year ago. 

 So, here we have the finished cab. One side will have closed windows, which is the fireman's side. The engineer's side will have open widows so you can see him. This is the open window before we build the awning. 

Here is the closed window with the shade furled. I used cigarette paper, per Lee's instructions, and painted it a tan color. 

This gives a better look at it. 

Here I am making the open shade. The cigarette paper is glued to the brass rod, and then painted. The paint stiffens the paper and allows me to glue it with canopy glue to the side of the cab. 

Here is the finished engine with the fireman's side towards us. 

It has all the PRR lettering that they came out with. The antenna addition is a pain to build but it really makes the engine look distinctive. 

Here is the engineer's side with the shade open. 

Here is the relaxed and cool engineer enjoying the fresh air. I will do a little weathering but these engines were new in my time frame. 

My engine does not look as good as Lee's, but I think I captured the effect. The engine is now running with another, later model GP9. These are by Oriental. Next out is an RS1 with a longer shade. 
 

Throwbars

So, I fabricate the throw bars from double sided printed circuit boards that I cut in to 1/4-inch-wide pieces about 2.5 inches long. I drill three #56 holes along the centerline. The outer two holes are spaced 28/32" of an inch apart. Then I put 00-90 screws into the two outer holes to secure the Right-O-Way points. I use 16-foot points for these #5 and #6 turnouts. 

The screws stick up enough for me to get the points mounted on the layout.  They just barely fit into the holes.

Then I solder the screws to the bottom of the two-sided PC board. No worries about these coming out in service. 

Lastly, I cut the cladding on both top and bottom so there is no conductivity between the points which are powered from the stock rails, along with the diverging route rails. This makes them suitable for DCC as well as DC. 

Next you will see them installed. 
 

Continuing the track laying

Given that I am working near the ceiling, I have to find a way to look at the track alignment, so I decided to use a mirror to look down the line. It really helped. 

So, now I have begun to lay the ties, using a straight edge to align them coming off the branch line. After they are glued, I place two heavy weights onto the ties to be sure they are fully into the glue. I also used a piece of Atlas track as a guide to be sure I had consistent spacing of the ties. 

Now, here is the first section glued in place. I have to get the second turnout laid out, so it flows into the second siding track. You can see the center line of that track coming out from under the turnout template beyond the raw ties in the picture. 

I used a shorter straight edge to align these, and also used the Atlas track as an additional guide. The weights are holding down the ties after they are glued. 

Now everything is glued and firmly in place. I have to get my sander and sand to be sure everything is level. The yard here is bowed as it is leveling out from an upward grade.

Okay, we have sanded everything and vacuumed up the dust and we are ready to lay the first turnout. First, I use the template to locate the frog. This gives me a starting point, so I am consistent with the templates.

Frog is in, the two stock rails are down and the points fitted. I am using my mirror to check the flow and it looks good. I also have a truck with my wheelsets sitting here as I use it to make sure everything flows and there are no binds with the flangeways. 

Second turnout has its frog in place, and we are flowing from the first into the second siding. You can see the track is resting in place further down the line. The mirror is always close by.

A closer look at the second turnout. I am also checking the fit of the guard rails. These are Harry Roberts pewter cast guard rails. 

Just for the record, this is how I am working. Standing on the stool on top of the bench that Alan made for me so we can switch this area. If I shift too fast, I can topple over. Almost have twice. Now you know why I am using the mirror! Not too comfortable a position.

Both turnouts are nearing completion so I can cut the ties to match their flow. Phone is there as I got tired of jumping down to answer it!

The guard rails are now going in place. You have to be sure that the flangeways are the correct width. I found that the #6 bolted frogs in code 125 by Right O Way had narrow flangeways, so I had to grind them out. 

We are looking good now. Next, I have to make throw bars.

 Here is an overall view. Throwbars are in the next installment.

Finishing the '34 Ford Pick Up

So, you saw this when I was priming the Studebaker in an earlier post. It is an inexpensive 1934 Ford die cast model that I disassembled and painted as I described I was going to do.

This is the reassembled truck next to a similar starting point for the next one. I think these cars cost me $5. 

I painted the fenders black as was common, the body dark green and left the chrome on the headlight housing. I painted over the chrome wheel hubs, bumpers, and taillights. I silvered the doorknobs and painted the interior. I kept the running board looking like rubber and I painted the roof to look different like canvas which was painted. The driver is an inexpensive Chinese made sitting figure. 

Here is the start and the finish. It doesn't look like a rod anymore.

It should look good on the layout. I have to find something for him to be carrying. Plus I need a black license plate holder and a license plate. 
 

Finally back to track laying - Glen Burnie Colliery

Well, it has been a long time since I have expanded the trackwork on the layout but I had an unfortunate accident here where some trees stored on a foam base interfered with a set of PRR F7's and they fell to the floor - about 7 feet.  That is now another project to be addressed.  

 In any case, this area has been unfinished for about 5 years and it is time to rectify that. My head is up against the ceiling as I take these pictures. I am trying to scope out the track layout. 

I have drawn the centerlines of the three tracks that will go into the mine. I am using some turnout templates, both number 5 and number 6, to see how I can connect the three siding tracks that abut the head house in as efficient a way as possible. I reached out to Brad at Signature Switch who made my double slip switch and the foreground turnout which is built to a radius, not a number of a frog, as I was hoping a three way switch could be helpful in this spot. He drew up some options but they ended up being about 30 inches long. 

So, I went back to the drawing board at his urging, and started with two Number 5 turnouts. The spacing of the sidings was a bit big for that. I want to keep about 3.5 inches between the centerlines as the tracks are high and will be harder to deal with. 

Here are the two radius based turnouts that form the main line up to the bridge over the aisle. The curved portions are the main line on a 56 inch radius and the straight leg of the foreground turnout will lead into Shamokin and also form the switch lead for the mine. 

 I finally settled on a number 5 off the main line turnout and then a number 6 to the front two siding tracks. The length of the two turnouts is about 32 inches. So, now I have to go down and lay some ties to build them on.