Well, after the assembly was completed, I had to mount everything back on the lathe. So, first was the apron. You can see how it sits with the cross-feed gear sitting up above the apron to engage the cross gear. The lead screw has been re-attached so it is holding the apron in place.
Now, the saddle is in place and attached both front and back. The tail stock is mounted as is the collet holder. I have tested the various feeds and they work really well. I am very pleased with the lack of lag in the cross feed power assembly and the overall feel of the tool holder.
Here is another view from behind the tail of the lathe. I am now debating opening up the head stock to see if I need to replace the lubrication wicks in that area. Maybe during the heat of summer when the basement is a great spot to be.
Sunday, January 16, 2022
Saturday, January 15, 2022
Maintenance problems - A Lathe cross feed failure.
Well, a critical piece of equipment for me is my South Bend lathe. It was built in 1945 and delivered to a company in Boston. It had a relatively hard life and I found it in the backyard of a house in Falls Church, VA in about 1989. It was under a tarp and came with a small amount of tooling. I took the lathe home and then rebuilt much of it, adding some new used parts. In those days, I worked with a used equipment fellow up in New Jersey to get parts. Well, the lathe gave me good service until about 3 months ago when the cross feed drive clutch froze. Fortunately, I found a new used drive, in good shape, for a great price on eBay. So, the next step was disassembly, which began with removing the saddle, tailstock and collet holder that mounted to the back of the lathe. So, here we see the lathe minus the saddle and apron, useless until I fix the drive. For an old machine, It still looks good. The ways have some nicks but it still maintains good accuracy when I use it with my 3C collets.
Here is the apron in the process of being disassembled. The cause of my problem was a failure of the reservoir gasket which led to a loss of lubrication on the clutch and then a seizure of the shaft. It is amazing how many tools accumulate as you do some work on something!
Here is the saddle which is pretty clean after 10 years since the last cleaning. I had put in a new cross feed screw and nut coupled with a larger dial.
This is the tail stock which is set up for a quick closer and drill. It is a heritage of its harder working days.
So, the lack of lubrication also led to accelerated wear of the worm drive gear. The old gear on the right shows that, in comparison the replacement gear, A significant loss of metal in the teeth of the old gear has occurred.
I have almost gotten all the components off the chassis of the saddle now. I have also cleaned up the interior of it. You can see that someone in the past had added a new sleeve for the shaft that used the far right hole.
This is the final array. The culprit of my problems was the large metal shield in the foreground that formed the back of the reservoir. The gasket failed. I hope I do not have any screws or other parts left over when I am finished with reassembly!
The bottom of the chassis casting, which looks like a big cavity, was where the half-moon metal shield mounted. If you look carefully, you can see the gasket outline.
So, here we see everything cleaned up, new parts add, lubricated with a surface coat of oil, and back in place. All that is missing are the handwheel that mounts to the far right and the reservoir back.
Handwheel now in place
A cleaned up front view.
A final back view with the reservoir in place as the back shield is mounted. Next step is to mount this on the lathe by threading it on lead screw, attach it to the saddle and see if it works!
Here is the apron in the process of being disassembled. The cause of my problem was a failure of the reservoir gasket which led to a loss of lubrication on the clutch and then a seizure of the shaft. It is amazing how many tools accumulate as you do some work on something!
Here is the saddle which is pretty clean after 10 years since the last cleaning. I had put in a new cross feed screw and nut coupled with a larger dial.
This is the tail stock which is set up for a quick closer and drill. It is a heritage of its harder working days.
So, the lack of lubrication also led to accelerated wear of the worm drive gear. The old gear on the right shows that, in comparison the replacement gear, A significant loss of metal in the teeth of the old gear has occurred.
I have almost gotten all the components off the chassis of the saddle now. I have also cleaned up the interior of it. You can see that someone in the past had added a new sleeve for the shaft that used the far right hole.
Fortunately, the damage was confined the clutch assembly, and the worm gear,
This is the final array. The culprit of my problems was the large metal shield in the foreground that formed the back of the reservoir. The gasket failed. I hope I do not have any screws or other parts left over when I am finished with reassembly!
The bottom of the chassis casting, which looks like a big cavity, was where the half-moon metal shield mounted. If you look carefully, you can see the gasket outline.
So, here we see everything cleaned up, new parts add, lubricated with a surface coat of oil, and back in place. All that is missing are the handwheel that mounts to the far right and the reservoir back.
Handwheel now in place
A cleaned up front view.
A final back view with the reservoir in place as the back shield is mounted. Next step is to mount this on the lathe by threading it on lead screw, attach it to the saddle and see if it works!
Wednesday, January 5, 2022
Yet another basket case - SC&F ATSF Extended height boxcar
Well, I am a sucker for a challenge, and I really like this car. I have standard height version, a Precision Brass car that is based on an SP car, a Bx-15. I changed the wood door and brake system to match the ATSF prototype. So, I wanted a raised roof car and this is an excellent model by SC&&F. I did not save any views of what I started with, but the ladders were broken so I contacted the owner of SC&F and he forwarded me a new set of ladders! What customer service! It also had some broken parts that I was able to replace from my own stock. This is an overview of the car, and I am going to use a Morton roof walk rather than wood provided to make it more distinctive car. I am not going to attach the Morton walk until after the car is painted. Before I paint it, I have to buy decals from Protocal as the provided ones were gone. Fortunately, Norm had them in stock.
The hardest part of the assembly is making the extensions of the ladders. That is why the ones the other fellow had were broken. I made up the jig shown in the instructions and was able to use it to make the ladder. I like the inverted dreadnaught end.
The end details were made using different brake parts than those provided with the kit. I kept the power brake but removed the platform. I did not change the retainer valve as I felt the work wasn't worth it. Also added a Yoder coupler pocket.Grabs were changed to make them even and the corner steps fabricated.
Cut lever was made up and air hose added. Platform supports are from Intermountain.
Underbody detail was a soldered assembly that did not use the parts provided with the kit, rather used homemade brass levers. Why? I have no idea, but I used it and just had to realign the rodding. You can see the Yoder coupler pocket as well.
So, the completed end awaiting painting. The brake platform will go on after painting as it is a galvanized part.
In making the roof ready to install, I had to preinstall the roof end supports and corner supports so I could just glue it in after I paint the roof black. So, we have about 2 to three weeks to go as we await the decals.
The hardest part of the assembly is making the extensions of the ladders. That is why the ones the other fellow had were broken. I made up the jig shown in the instructions and was able to use it to make the ladder. I like the inverted dreadnaught end.
The end details were made using different brake parts than those provided with the kit. I kept the power brake but removed the platform. I did not change the retainer valve as I felt the work wasn't worth it. Also added a Yoder coupler pocket.Grabs were changed to make them even and the corner steps fabricated.
Cut lever was made up and air hose added. Platform supports are from Intermountain.
Underbody detail was a soldered assembly that did not use the parts provided with the kit, rather used homemade brass levers. Why? I have no idea, but I used it and just had to realign the rodding. You can see the Yoder coupler pocket as well.
So, the completed end awaiting painting. The brake platform will go on after painting as it is a galvanized part.
In making the roof ready to install, I had to preinstall the roof end supports and corner supports so I could just glue it in after I paint the roof black. So, we have about 2 to three weeks to go as we await the decals.